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How To Grow Onion & Leek TransplantsThe best onions are grown from transplants set out in October or November, and wintered over, to mature in June or July. Sets are best used for Spring planting (Fall-planted sets tend to bolt with the lengthening days in Spring). Although sets may not produce as big or as early an onion as Fall-grown transplants, they are a convenient, quick way to grow onions for scallions and smaller bulbs. Leeks, a member of the Allium family (like garlic & onions), add great flavor to soups or cooked dishes. Looks like a giant scallion. These are organically-grown from the same grower we receive our onion transplants. Cultural Conditions Onions are adapted to a wide range of temperatures and are frost tolerant. Best production is obtained when cool temperatures (55°F-75°F) prevail over an extended period of time, permitting considerable foliage and root development before bulbing starts. After bulbing begins, high temperature and low relative humidity during the harvest and curing period are desirable. Unfavorable growing conditions may result in onions bolting or sending up flower stalks. If flower stalks develop, carefully cut them from the plant or the bulb size may be reduced. Soil Preparation Onions prefer loose, well-drained soils that are high in fertility, slightly acidic, adequately irrigated and exposed to full sunlight. The looser the composition of your soil, the larger your onion bulbs will grow. Prepare your bed by turning under animal manure or plant residue-based compost, making sure that this material is fully broken down before planting. Compost composed of cedar or redwood is not an acceptable substitute for high quality compost. The potential for fungus diseases like smut, downy mildew and pink root can be greatly reduced by avoiding beds where onions, garlic and other Alliums have been grown within the last two years. This time period is a basic rule of thumb but, in general, "the longer the better". As gophers are a major pest in onion beds, gopher traps, wire barriers and wire baskets should be utilized prior to and during planting. Planting & Growing Onions ;& Leeks We ship onion transplants in the Fall as this is the optimum time to plant them in mild climates. Onion transplants are often wilted when they arrive, but like other members of the hardy lily family, they will survive for about 2 weeks after being pulled from the soil. If you cannot plant them immediately upon receipt, either refrigerate them after soaking the roots in water or mound soil around the roots and keep them moist until planted. Before planting, trim onion tops to approximately 3" and roots to 1/4" - roots will begin to grow rapidly once planted. Plant onion transplants 1"- 2" deep (to the top of white section), 4"-6" apart. Rows should be 18"-24" apart or 12" apart if planting for commercial production. If planted on raised beds which are approximately 20" wide, transplants should be planted in double rows 4" from each edge. If smaller onions are desired, spacing can be as close as 3" apart. "Scatter planting" among vegetables in interplanted gardens is sometimes utilized to ward off a variety of pests, but onions must not be forced to face heavy competition from surrounding neighbors. Onions should be mulched and supplied with ample phosphorus while growing. Mulch deeply (up to 8") in cold Winter areas but only lightly in milder climates. Mulching will suppress weeds, maintain soil moisture and protect bulbs from "heaving" (working their way out of the soil) during extreme temperature cycles. Weed suppression is critical for onions - you can grow weeds or onions, but not both. Regular irrigation is necessary anytime rainfall is not sufficient to provide the 1" of water per week required to keep bulbs from splitting in hot dry soil or tasting bitter at harvest. Water up until the time you harvest! Beds kept weed free and properly irrigated will require little additional care. Harvesting & Storing Onions & Leeks Onions are mature and ready to harvest when their tops have yellowed and begin to fall over. Finish bending the tops horizontal to the ground by hand or with a rake for those that have not completely fallen over. This bending will stop the sap from diverting energy into the leaves while the bulb matures. Harvest bulbs after the tops have turned brown. Place the tops of one row over the bulbs of another to keep them from becoming sunburned. When the outer skins have dried, complete harvesting by clipping the roots, wiping off any remaining soil and cutting the tops back to 1" above the bulb. Onions keep best when kept separated; individual foil wrapped specimens can last up to a year under refrigeration. Pungent onion varieties, which have low water content, will keep longer than sweeter, moister types. Hanging an onion in a mesh bag, in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location and tied off to separate onions from each other, is the recommended method of preserving onion bulbs for maximum shelf life.
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