How should we think about olive growing zones?
USDA Zone 7 is typically considered too cold for olive trees.
But we're gardeners, which means we want to grow beautiful trees that aren't recommended for our zones. That goes both ways too -- for every New Yorker wanting a Meyer lemon tree we have a Southern Californian longing to grow Bartlett pears.
Tricia plants an olive tree in our latest video and that probably has you fired up about the beautiful and long-lived trees, with their crop of health-giving fruit. Here's how to push the envelope for olives in your climate. 
Classic ways to find warmth for olives in your zone
Find the warm microclimates on your property Microclimates are the hotter and cooler parts of your landscape. Tips for locating warm microclimates: Up against the wall Heat will reflect from a south or west-facing wall of your house, outbuilding or wooden fence. The stored heat from the daytime will continue to warm the tree at night, raising the temperatures by several degrees. Plant an olive near one of those structures (allowing room for mature olive tree branches and good air circulation around the tree). Facing south or west Garden areas that get full southern exposure are the warmest parts of the landscape. Western exposures come next as hot spots. An eastern exposure captures morning sun, but is shaded in the afternoon, so there is not enough additional heat to really create a warmer microclimate. Higher is better The upper part of a slope will be warmer than the lower part. Cold air heads down hills and into valleys, bringing cooler temperatures and increased potential for frost. 
Olive varieties that are more cold-tolerant
Typical olives trees will be damaged by temperatures below 17F and may not survive temperatures below 10F. A few varieties are a bit tougher and more likely to make it through cold spells. If you're in USDA Zone 7, we recommend Mission and Arbequina olive trees.
28 comments
I have a small 3-year-old olive tree in a container in my patio area, something has been eating the leaves summer and this winter. I am in Ga. zone 7. What would be eating my leaves and what can I use that is not chemical?
Terry, I would wait to plant it outside when it has warmed up a bit. Unless you get one locally that has been acclimated to the cold weather. It might be quite a shock putting in a tree that has been kept indoors. Our trees are probably not as big as you want, they are about two feet and pencil size caliper.
I am in North Central Texas, zone 7, and I want to plant an Arbequina olive tree. I want to get one that is already 2-3 ft tall, when would be the best time to plant it outdoors?
Thanks!
This is my first winter with an olive tree.(potted) It flourished outside all summer and fall but its been dropping leaves all winter inside no matter what I do. It barely has any healthy leaves remaining. Its in a room with plenty of sunlight. Is it normal to drop leaves? The tiny branches that are now bare are also brittle like tbey are dead. Any tips for me? I’m afraid it won’t last another month.
I have an olive I have been growing for several years in a pot in Zone 7a. I bring it inside in a greenhouse-type area beneath my deck for each winter. I would like to plant it out on a south facing protected wall and was thinking I could build a temporary hoophouse-like structure on the wall that I could take down each spring. Would that possibly work? I think it would stay warm enough but would it get too hot on warm days? I do protect a fig in this same area each year but it is wrapped and insulated top to bottom with leaves. I can’t do that with an olive can I – because that would be easiest? Any thoughts