Summer Tree Pruning: Which Trees to Prune & Why

Pruning Fruit Trees in the Modified Central Leader Shape

Pruning fruit trees can feel daunting, but with the right approach, it’s an essential practice that ensures healthy growth, abundant fruiting, and long-term vitality. For cherry, apricot, and pluot trees, summer pruning is vital due to their susceptibility to water-borne diseases, which can exploit winter pruning cuts in rainy weather. The Modified Central Leader shape is ideal for these trees and works well for other varieties, such as apple, pear, persimmon, and walnut trees.

This guide will walk you through the steps to prune and train your fruit trees into the Modified Central Leader shape, making the process manageable and rewarding.

Why Choose the Modified Central Leader Shape?

The Modified Central Leader shape features a vertical trunk with horizontal scaffold branches arranged around it. This structure balances aesthetics with practicality, offering:

1. Sun Protection: The filled-in canopy shields branches and fruit from sunscald, particularly beneficial in sunny regions like the Southwest.
2. Strong Branch Structure: Properly spaced scaffolds ensure stability and can bear heavy fruit loads.
3. Efficient Growth: The shape encourages even distribution of sunlight and airflow, reducing disease risk and enhancing fruit quality.

How to Prune and Train Your Fruit Tree

Pruning your tree in the Modified Central Leader shape begins with careful observation and strategic cuts. Follow these steps to shape your tree from its early years:

1. Choose Four Permanent Scaffold Branches

Height

• The first set of scaffold branches should be 18 to 24 inches above the ground. This creates a stable base for the tree and makes maintenance and harvest easier.

Angles

• Look for branches that form 45- to 60-degree angles with the trunk. These angles are strong and less likely to break under the weight of fruit.
• If you find branches with narrow crotch angles, use spreaders to widen them. For example:
  • Use wooden spreaders or clothespins for smaller branches.
  • Try adjustable tree limb spreaders for larger branches.

Placement Around the Trunk

• Select branches that don’t overlap or crowd each other. Ideally, they should be positioned at 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock around the trunk.

Vertical Separation

• Ensure there’s 8 to 10 inches of vertical space between each scaffold branch for balanced growth.

2. Label the Scaffold Branches

Prevent accidental pruning mistakes by labeling the branches you intend to keep. Use wide, colorful ribbons or bird-scare tape to mark these branches clearly. Avoid using inconspicuous materials like garden twine, which can blend into the foliage.

3. Head Back the Non-Scaffold Branches

What Is a Heading Cut?

• A heading cut removes part of a branch without cutting it all the way to the trunk. This stimulates growth and encourages branching.

How to Head Back Non-Scaffolds

• Cut non-scaffold branches down to 6 inches in length. This redirects the tree’s energy to the scaffold branches and the central leader.

4. Thin Branches to One Strong Leader

Choosing the Leader

• Identify the strongest vertical shoot as the central leader. This shoot will define the vertical structure of the tree.

Thinning Cut

• Remove competing vertical shoots using a thinning cut. Cut just outside the collar (the slight ridge where the branch meets the trunk) to avoid damaging the tree.

5. Head Back the Central Leader

To promote growth and maintain the tree’s shape, make a heading cut on the central leader.

• Cut it to 20 inches above the top scaffold branch to encourage further branching.

6. Head Back the Scaffold Branches

Stimulate growth in your scaffold branches by shortening them.

• Cut each scaffold branch back by half or less, depending on the tree’s vigor and the branch’s length.

Pruning Tools and Tips

Shop Corona Hi-Performance Orchard Loppers, 36

To make the pruning process smooth and efficient, prepare your tools and follow these tips:

1. Use Sharp Tools: Clean, sharp pruners or loppers make precise cuts and minimize damage to the tree.
2. Disinfect Tools: Sterilize tools between cuts, especially when working on multiple trees, to prevent the spread of diseases.
3. Prune in the Right Season:
   • Summer for cherry, apricot, and pluot trees to reduce disease risk.
   • Winter for other fruit trees like apples and pears during dormancy.
4. Take Your Time: Approach pruning methodically, focusing on one branch at a time.

Benefits of the Modified Central Leader Shape

Pruning in this shape offers long-term benefits for your fruit trees and your garden:

• Healthier Trees: Better air circulation and sun exposure reduce the risk of fungal diseases and sunscald.
• Improved Fruit Production: Evenly spaced branches can support more fruit and allow for easier harvesting.
• Aesthetic Appeal: The tree’s balanced, open shape enhances the visual appeal of your garden or orchard.

High-Density Planting and Additional Resources

If you’re growing multiple trees in a small space, high-density planting techniques can complement the Modified Central Leader shape. By keeping trees smaller and well-pruned, you can maximize your harvest in limited areas.

For more detailed guidance on high-density planting, pruning cane berries, and general fruit tree care, visit our Fruit Tree Central resource library.

Final Thoughts

Pruning fruit trees may seem intimidating, but with the Modified Central Leader shape, you can create a robust and productive structure for your trees. By following these steps and practicing patience, you’ll enjoy healthier trees and bountiful harvests for years to come.

Whether you’re a novice gardener or an experienced orchardist, mastering this pruning method is an investment in the long-term success of your garden.

For more information on pruning fruit trees, see our recent blog about high density planting in your home orchard. We also have helpful guides on pruning cane berries in your garden.