Introduction
Plant asparagus crowns in a permanent, sunny bed with deep, well-drained soil. Space crowns about 12–18 inches apart in rows at least 3 feet apart, keep the roots from drying before planting, and wait until the second year for a light harvest. A well-sited asparagus bed can remain productive for many years.
Choose and prepare the asparagus bed
Asparagus is a hardy perennial, so select a location that will not be disturbed by annual tillage. Full sun supports sturdy fern growth and future spear production. Test the soil before planting and correct drainage, pH, and nutrient problems according to the test results. Work finished compost into the bed, but avoid creating a rich pocket of amendment that can hold water around the crowns.
Remove perennial weeds before planting. If gophers are a recurring problem, install an appropriate underground barrier before the crowns go in. Shop asparagus crowns and review the broader perennial vegetable crowns and roots guide before laying out the bed.
When and how to plant asparagus crowns
Plant dormant crowns in spring as soon as the soil is workable and no longer saturated. Open the shipping package promptly and keep the roots cool and slightly moist until planting; do not let them dry out.
- Dig a furrow about 6–8 inches deep. Space rows at least 3 feet apart.
- Set each crown with the buds facing up and spread the roots naturally. Allow about 12–18 inches between crowns.
- Cover the crowns with 2–3 inches of soil and water thoroughly.
- As the shoots grow, gradually add soil until the furrow is level with the surrounding bed. Do not bury emerging shoots all at once.
If frozen or saturated soil delays planting, heel the crowns into damp soil or sand in a cool, protected place. Check them frequently and plant in the permanent bed as soon as conditions allow.
Watering, feeding, and weed control
Consistent moisture is especially important during planting and the first seasons of fern development. Water deeply enough to moisten the root zone, then allow excess water to drain. Mulch can conserve moisture and reduce weeds, but keep it loose around emerging spears.
Weed by hand or cultivate very shallowly so you do not damage the crowns. Let healthy ferns grow through summer; they manufacture the energy stored for next year's crop. Use a soil test rather than routinely applying a high-phosphorus fertilizer. Compost and a balanced amendment may be appropriate where the test shows a need.
When to harvest asparagus
| Season after planting crowns | Harvest approach |
|---|---|
| First year | Do not harvest. Let every spear become a fern. |
| Second year | Take a light, short harvest only from vigorous plants. |
| Third year and later | Harvest spears while they are tight and tender, then stop by early summer and let the remaining spears fern out. |
Stop harvesting when spear size declines or by the locally recommended early-summer cutoff. Cut or snap spears near soil level without injuring nearby buds. Leave the ferns standing until they turn brown after frost, then remove the dead growth to reduce overwintering pest habitat.
Plan the rest of the perennial bed
Use the berry and vine seasonal care calendar as a model for scheduling dormant-season work, and see the perennial vegetable crowns and roots collection for other long-lived edible crops.




4 comments
Tom, I would go ahead and plant them and see if they grow.
My crowns have dried out. Is it worth planting them?
Molly, you would just plant as normal. Try not to break off the new shoot as you are planting and maybe not cover the new shoot deeply with soil. You are not going to do anything with the new plants the first couple of years, just let them grow.
Planting crowns tomorrow. There is some “shoot” growth out of the crowns. How should I deal with them in the planting process please?