Organic Gardening Tip of the Week

Espalier is a beautiful and functional way to grow fruit trees. In our video, Tricia talks about the techniques needed to prune and train an espalier. Espaliered trees and plants may be time intensive to maintain but they repay you in high fruit production in a very small space. If you're considering adding an espalier to your garden, the first step is planning. If you have a space that is narrow but gets good sun exposure, an espalier would be a good choice. Also if you want to create a stunning privacy screen or cover to a large blank wall, training a tree or plant is a great solution. Choose a shape you find beautiful and appropriate for the space you're filling. Next choose a tree to shape. Apples, pears and figs are great choices to espalier. We have a great blog, Gallery of Espalier Forms, to show you different ways to shape your espalier. You will need to put in the time to train and prune your fruit tree, but it will be worth the time with the all the fruit you will get from your espalier.

Caring for fruit trees is not just a warm weather activity. Good winter care is very important to the health of your trees as well. Winter pruning is important for apples, pears, peaches and nectarines, but should be avoided in pluots, apricots, plums and cherries. It is best to prune those after harvest or thinning can be done in warm dry weather. You will want to remove dead or broken branches and thin out any crossing branches as well. Orchard sanitation is very important as well. You will want to remove rotting fruit on the ground and also any fruit still on the tree. Rake up leaves under trees as well. Old fruit and leaves provide a great place for disease and pests to overwinter. Dormant sprays for pests and disease can be applied during the winter to cut down on any eggs or spores that are hanging on during the winter months. Take a little time this winter to clean up your orchard or yard and then enjoy a cup of hot tea or coffee and plan out the garden, seed starting is just around the corner!

Bare root trees are shipping out to their new homes and they need to be cared for upon arrival. Take the trees out of the box and inspect them for any damage at the graft, some broken branches are fine, they will regrow quickly in the spring. If you can’t plant your tree in the ground right away, they should be heeled in to protect the roots until planting time. This can be done outside if the ground is not frozen, or if it is, put them in the garage, covered with loose soil, compost or wood shavings (but not cedar, redwood or rice hulls). Keep the roots moist but not soaking wet. Plant your tree as soon as you can and definitely before it breaks dormancy in the spring (leafing out and blooming).

As winter blankets the garden in stillness, it may seem like a time when the world of plants takes a much-needed break from its vibrant summer activity. However, for those who grow cane berries like raspberries and blackberries, this season of dormancy is a critical juncture in the yearly cycle. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the intriguing world of pruning dormant cane berries and understand why this period is so vital for the health and productivity of these beloved berry plants.

The Dormant Season: Nature's Slumber and Plant Rejuvenation

Dormancy is a natural state that many perennial plants, including cane berries, enter into during the colder months of the year. It's a phase when growth appears to halt, leaves fall, and the plant's energy is redirected inward, focusing on root development and energy storage. This temporary suspension of active growth serves multiple purposes in the plant world.

Why Prune During Dormancy?

So, why is it crucial to prune cane berries during this period of dormancy? The answer lies in the unique growth patterns and life cycles of these berry-producing plants.

Raspberries

Let's begin with raspberries. Raspberry canes exhibit a biennial growth cycle. In the first year, they are known as "primocanes" and do not bear fruit. However, in their second year, they transform into "floricanes," producing the succulent berries we eagerly anticipate. But here's the catch: once these second-year canes have borne fruit, their journey comes to an end. They begin to wither and will no longer produce berries.

This is where winter pruning comes into play. By the time the dormant season arrives, these spent canes are ready to be removed. They've given their all in producing a delectable harvest, and now it's time to make room for new growth. Cutting back these dead, damaged, or weak canes right at ground level not only tidies up your raspberry patch but also eliminates potential disease sources and encourages the emergence of vigorous, fruit-bearing canes in the coming year.

But winter pruning isn't just about removing the old; it's also about nurturing the new. During dormancy, it's easier to identify the robust canes, typically around 1/4” in diameter, that will bear fruit in the next season. Thinning out these canes, leaving them spaced about 6” apart, allows for better air circulation and sunlight penetration, fostering healthier berries. As you trim away the excess growth, you're effectively sculpting your raspberry patch for future abundance.

Raspberry Patch Management

One of the peculiarities of raspberries is their propensity to spread through underground runners, creating an ever-expanding berry patch. Left unchecked, your raspberry patch could become an unruly jungle. This is where diligent pruning during dormancy also comes to the rescue.

By digging up any raspberry plants that have ventured beyond the 2’ wide row you aim to maintain, you not only maintain order but also create opportunities. These rogue plants can be relocated to other parts of your garden, shared with friends eager to start their own berry adventure, or repurposed in your compost bin, ensuring that your raspberry patch remains a controlled and productive oasis.

Blackberries

Unlike raspberries, blackberries exhibit a range of growth habits—erect, semi-erect, and trailing. Each type demands its unique set of pruning techniques, all of which are most effectively applied during the dormant season.

1. Erect Blackberries: Erect blackberries, true to their name, grow upright and are often easier to manage. Pruning these blackberries during dormancy involves several key steps:

• Removal of dead canes, typically identified by their brown color, should be a priority. These canes have served their purpose and will no longer contribute to the plant's vitality.
• Trimming back the laterals, or side branches, to a length of 12–18” encourages fresh growth and ensures a more compact and manageable plant.
• If the canes have grown taller than your trellis or fence, topping them to about 5’ not only keeps them in check but also simplifies future maintenance.

2. Semi-Erect Blackberries: Semi-erect blackberries possess characteristics of both erect and trailing varieties, demanding a unique approach to pruning. Here's how to care for them during dormancy:

• Thinning out the canes is essential. Keep 5 to 8 of the strongest ones, removing the weaker ones to allow the remaining canes to flourish.
• Shorten the laterals to a length of 12–18” to stimulate new growth and promote a bushier, healthier plant.
• Focus on the lower 3’ section of the main canes, removing any growth in this area to encourage upward growth.
• To provide support, consider tying these semi-erect canes to a fence or trellis, preventing them from sprawling and making harvest more accessible.

3. Trailing Blackberries: Trailing blackberries, while rewarding, require special attention, especially in colder regions. Dormant pruning for these varieties is an art in itself:

• In regions with harsh winters, leave the canes on the ground during dormancy.
• Protect them by covering them with row cover or mulch to shield them from the elements.
• In the spring, when the threat of frost has passed, lift the canes and tie them to a trellis at heights of 3’ and 6’. This encourages vertical growth and prevents the canes from sprawling on the ground, simplifying future maintenance and harvest.

Final Thoughts on Pruning Dormant Cane Berries

By understanding the unique growth patterns of raspberries and the diverse habits of blackberries, we can unravel the secrets of effective pruning during the dormant season. Pruning during this time allows us to remove spent canes, paving the way for fresh growth and a bountiful harvest. It's a time when we sculpt our berry patches, maintaining order and ensuring that these delectable fruits have the space and resources they need to thrive.

The dormant season is nature's gift to gardeners, providing an opportunity to rejuvenate and prepare for the vibrant growth that awaits in the seasons to come. So, embrace this season of rest, and with mindful pruning, watch your dormant cane berries awaken to a fruitful and flourishing future. Happy pruning!

Additional Resources

We have a wide variety of berry plants for sale.

Our resource center includes How to Grow Cane Berries: A Growing Guide.

Follow these tips from Master Gardeners in your region.

1. Napa Master Gardener Column - UC Master Gardeners of Napa County: This article provides a comprehensive guide on pruning various types of raspberries, including summer-bearing, fall-bearing, black, and purple raspberries. It also covers the specifics of pruning blackberries and offers tips for maintaining a healthy berry patch. For more details, visit UC Master Gardeners of Napa County.

2. Berry pruning basics - OSU Extension Service: This resource from the Oregon State University Extension Service covers the basics of pruning fall-bearing raspberries, black and purple raspberries, and blueberries. It includes instructions for pruning during the dormant season and the growing season, along with tips for maintaining healthy currant and gooseberry bushes. To read more, visit OSU Extension Service.

3. Berry Good to Prune Your Berries Properly - UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa: This article focuses on the correct pruning techniques for blackberries. It explains the difference between primocanes and floricanes and offers advice on how much to prune each type. Additional resources on blackberry care are also provided. For further information, check out UC Master Gardener Program of Contra Costa.

4. Pruning: Fruit Trees and Blueberries - Buncombe County Extension Master Gardener Volunteers: This piece provides a detailed guide on pruning blueberries for maximum yield and health. It includes specific steps for pruning at various stages of a blueberry bush's life, from initial planting to established plants. The article emphasizes the importance of thinning and heading back to promote healthy growth. You can learn more at Buncombe County Extension Master Gardener Volunteers.

5. Winter pruning boosts blackberry and raspberry harvests - Illinois Extension, University of Illinois: This article highlights the benefits of winter pruning for blackberries and raspberries. It describes the different needs of everbearing plants, erect brambles, and semi-erect brambles. The article also offers tips for pruning at spring planting and managing root suckers and hills. More details are available at Illinois Extension.

 

Blackberries have three possible growth habits—erect, semi-erect or trailing. The way to train and prune them will depend on the type. If you did not top the new canes during the late summer, you should top them to about 5’ (or the height of your trellis or fence). Dormant pruning of erect blackberries entails removing dead canes (color is brown vs a newer green cane) and cutting back laterals to 12–18”. Semi-erect blackberries should be thinned to 5 to 8 of the strongest canes, shorten the laterals to 12–18” and remove any growing on the lower 3’ section of the main canes. Tie to a fence or trellis to provide support. Trailing blackberries are less cold tolerant and in cold regions the canes can be left on the ground and protected with rowcover or mulch over the winter. In spring the canes can be lifted and tied to a trellis at 3’ and 6’.

Fruit trees should be pruned from the time they are planted. Early pruning will shape the tree into a desirable structure and will encourage better fruit production and less broken branches later in life. There are three types of pruning systems, Central Leader, Vase or Open Center and Modified Central Leader. The type of tree will dictate the pruning system chosen. Central Leader is best for apples, pears, persimmons and pecans. Apples, pears, peaches and nectarines can be pruned during the winter, but wait until summer to prune apricots, cherries and pluots. Do not prune when rain is forecast–you want dry weather for the cuts to heal over. If your trees have started to bloom or buds are swelling, it is a good idea to wait until either next dormant season or until you are ready to do your summer pruning. Make sure your pruners are clean and sharp. Clean up leaves and dropped fruit on the ground to decrease potential overwintering spots for pests and disease. For more information on pruning apples and pears, watch this video, or our other video on pruning a peach tree. We have compiled links to all of our fruit tree videos and articles at Fruit Tree Central, check it out for a wealth of information from planting, pruning, pest control and more.

 

Bare root trees and plants are a popular choice among gardeners and landscapers due to their affordability, ease of handling, and the promise of healthy, vibrant growth. However, when these plants arrive at your doorstep, it's crucial to know how to care for them, especially if you can't plant them in the ground right away. In this guide, we will walk you through the steps of heeling in your bare root trees or plants to ensure they thrive until you're ready to transplant them into their permanent homes.

Determining Optimal Planting Conditions

Your plant’s success hinges on selecting the right time for transplanting, and this decision depends largely on the air and soil temperatures in your region. When considering winter planting, it's essential to gauge whether the prevailing temperatures align with the needs of your plants.

In regions where winter temperatures consistently fall below freezing, it's typically impractical to plant bare root specimens directly into the ground. Instead, opt for heeling in as a temporary measure to shield your plants from frost damage until more favorable planting conditions arise in the spring. Ideal soil temperatures for planting bare root plants generally above 40°F (4°C), while air temperatures should be in the same range to support healthy root development and minimize the risk of frost damage.

Our customers have always enjoyed healthier plants when receiving them during winter dormancy, versus risks associated with shipments after temperatures have increased in shipping channels.  Shipping bare root plants during dormancy, before the risk of developing buds and leafing out, is a key strategy for ensuring their health. This approach minimizes stress and potential damage during transit, allowing plants to arrive in optimal condition for transplantation. It also provides gardeners with greater control over the timing of planting, leading to healthier, more vigorous growth when the plants are finally established in their new homes.

Step 1: Inspection and Assessment

The first order of business upon receiving your bare root trees or plants is to carefully inspect them. Look for any signs of damage, particularly at the graft site in the case of bare root trees. Minor issues like broken branches are generally not a cause for concern, as they can regrow once spring arrives. However, any severe damage or signs of disease should be documented and reported to the seller if necessary.

Step 2: Gathering Your Materials

Before proceeding with heeling in your bare root trees or plants, gather the necessary materials. You'll need a large pot, wheelbarrow, or some type of container, loose soil, compost, or wood shavings (avoid cedar, redwood, or rice hulls), and access to a suitable location for storage.

Step 3: Choosing the Storage Location

Your choice of storage location for heeling in your bare root trees or plants will depend on the weather conditions in your area. If the ground is not frozen and outdoor temperatures are reasonable, you can perform this process outdoors. However, if the weather is harsh or the ground is frozen, consider alternative storage options such as a garage, shed, basement, or greenhouse. The key is to maintain a temperature between 35-45°F to keep the trees/plants dormant until planting time.

Step 4: Preparing the Container

Whether you opt for a pot, wheelbarrow, or another container, ensure that it is clean and free from contaminants. A container with drainage holes is ideal to prevent waterlogging. Fill the container with loose soil, compost, or wood shavings. This medium will provide insulation and protection for the bare roots.

Step 5: Placing Your Bare Root Trees or Plants

Gently place your bare root trees or plants into the prepared container. Ensure that the roots are evenly spread out and do not overlap. The depth at which you plant them should mimic their natural growth position, with the roots fanning out and the crown or bud union (in the case of grafted trees) slightly above the soil level.

Step 6: Covering and Moistening

Once your trees or plants are securely positioned in the container, cover them with the chosen medium (soil, compost, or wood shavings). Make sure the roots are completely covered but avoid burying the crown or bud union too deeply. The medium should insulate the roots and protect them from drying out.

Step 7: Maintaining Moisture Levels

Proper moisture management is crucial during the heeling-in process. While you want to keep the roots moist, avoid overwatering and creating a waterlogged environment. Check the moisture level regularly, and water if the medium begins to dry out. Ensure that the container has proper drainage to prevent excess moisture buildup.

Step 8: Temperature Control

Maintaining the right temperature is vital for keeping your trees or plants dormant until you're ready to plant them. Aim to keep the storage area between 35-45°F. This temperature range ensures that your plants remain in a state of dormancy, preventing premature leafing out or blooming.

Step 9: Timing and Planting - Assessing Planting Readiness After Winter

Determining the right time to transplant your heeled-in bare root trees or plants after winter is critical for their successful establishment. Proper timing can help your plants thrive, while planting too early can expose them to various risks. Here's how you can gauge if the weather is conducive to planting and how to mitigate potential risks:

Assessing Planting Readiness:

1. Soil Temperature: The soil temperature is a crucial factor in determining planting readiness. Ideally, soil temperatures should consistently range above 40°F (4°C) for most bare root plants. You can measure soil temperature with a soil thermometer inserted a few inches deep into the ground.

2. Air Temperature: The air temperature should be in the same range as soil temperature to support healthy root development. Check local weather forecasts to monitor air temperatures and trends in your area.

3. Frost Risk: Keep an eye on the last expected frost date in your region, typically found in local gardening resources or online. Planting before this date can expose your plants to the risk of frost damage.

4. Soil Moisture: Ensure that the soil is not excessively wet or waterlogged. Planting in soggy conditions can lead to root rot and other issues.

Risks of Planting Too Early and Mitigation:

1. Frost Damage: Planting too early can expose your bare root plants to frost damage, which can harm tender new growth. To mitigate this risk, wait until the last expected frost date has passed or use frost protection measures such as row covers, cloths, or temporary greenhouses.

2. Slow Growth: Early planting in cold conditions can stunt plant growth and development. It's essential to wait until both soil and air temperatures are consistently within the recommended range to ensure vigorous growth.

3. Disease and Pest Vulnerability: Cold, wet soil can increase the vulnerability of your plants to soil-borne diseases and pests. Proper soil temperature and drainage are essential to minimize these risks.

4. Watering Challenges: In cold conditions, plants may not absorb water efficiently. Be cautious not to overwater during the early stages after planting. Water sparingly until the plants show signs of active growth.

5. Root Stress: Planting too early can stress the plant's roots, making them more susceptible to damage and disease. To minimize this risk, gently handle the roots during transplanting, and avoid planting in frozen or excessively wet soil.

The key to successful planting after winter lies in patience and careful observation of environmental conditions. Wait until both soil and air temperatures are suitable for your specific plants, and be mindful of potential risks associated with early planting. By taking these precautions and timing your transplanting correctly, you'll give your heeled-in bare root trees or plants the best chance to flourish in their new outdoor homes.

Additional Tips:

1. Protection from Wildlife: If your storage area is outdoors, consider protecting your heeled-in plants from wildlife by using fencing or barriers.

2. Labeling: To avoid confusion, label your heeled-in plants with their species or variety. This ensures you can easily identify them when it's time to plant.

3. Monitoring: Regularly check your heeled-in plants for any signs of stress, disease, or pests. Early detection can help you take prompt action.

4.  Choosing Suitable Containers: The size of your container should accommodate the size of the bare root trees or plants you have. It should provide enough room for the roots to spread comfortably. * Keep in mind this is only a temporary location for your tree or plant.  If buds begin to swell and flower, this indicates that the tree has broken dormancy and needs to be planted immediately.

5. Pruning: If your bare root trees have excessively long or damaged roots, consider pruning them before heeling them in. This can encourage healthy root development.

Watch our video for more information. Learn more about bare root trees in our Fruit Tree Central Guide.  See our collection of bare root trees for sale.

The best place to store your firewood is outside, away from the house, instead of stacked right up against the house. Firewood that is stacked right up against the house can give insects an avenue to enter the house or hide out. Insects such as cockroaches, termites, carpenter ants, beetles or pill bugs can take up residence in the wood pile. It is also a good idea to not store firewood inside the home either. Any insects that are dormant in the wood can warm up enough to wake up and take up residence in your home. Stay warm this winter, but keep the bugs outside!