9 Steps For Big Garlic (and how to grow large garlic bulbs)
What this article covers: This guide focuses specifically on the controllable factors that influence bulb size. It complements the main garlic guide rather than repeating every step of the growing season.
If you’re searching for how to grow big garlic or how to grow large garlic bulbs, the “bulb size” recipe is surprisingly consistent: start with large cloves, give each plant space, keep growth steady through spring, then time harvest and curing correctly.
Plan your planting: Shop seed garlic and shallots for the varieties or crops discussed in this article.
Quick answer (for bigger bulbs):
- Space cloves 6 inches apart (crowding is a top cause of small bulbs).
- Plant pointy end up, typically 1–2 inches deep (deeper in colder areas).
- Feed for strong leaf growth in early spring, then taper nitrogen as bulbing begins.
- Keep moisture consistent in spring, then taper watering as plants near maturity.
- For hardneck garlic, remove scapes to help direct energy into bulbs.
- Harvest when about half the leaves have yellowed, then cure in shade with airflow.
Step 1: Choose the right type for your climate
Garlic is often grouped into hardneck and softneck types. Hardneck garlic typically excels where winters are colder and produces a scape. Softneck types often perform well in milder winter regions and tend to store longer.
Helpful next read: Hardneck vs. softneck garlic.
Step 2: Plant at the best time
For most gardens, fall planting is commonly used to provide cold exposure and a long growing window that may support bulb development. The goal is to establish roots before winter, then push strong leaf growth in spring. In mild-winter areas, planting later in fall (or early winter) can be better than planting too early.
Step 3: Start with the biggest cloves
Bulb size is strongly influenced by planting stock. For a practical starting point, select large, sound cloves. Larger planting cloves often have more reserves, but they do not guarantee larger heads. Separate bulbs into cloves close to planting time, keep the papery skins on, and plant cloves pointy end up with the flat basal plate down.
Step 4: Give cloves practical room
If your goal is big bulbs, crowding is the enemy. Space clovabout 6 inches apart within the row as a starting point, then adjust for variety, clove size, soil, bed layout, and cultivation method. Keep rows far enough apart that you can weed and water easily.
Step 5: Prep soil for drainage and easy root growth
Garlic sizes up best where roots can expand easily and excess water drains away. Before planting, loosen the top 6–8 inches and mix in compost. In heavier soils, raised beds can improve drainage and bulb shape.
If you like to fine-tune inputs, a soil test kit can help guide amendment choices.
Step 6: Mulch for steadier conditions and fewer weeds
Mulch reduces temperature swings, helps hold moisture, and blocks weed competition. After planting, apply a 3–4 inch layer of clean straw or leaves. Top it up if it breaks down over winter.
Step 7: Feed early, then taper late
Big bulbs require strong leaves first. Use soil-test results, crop history, visible growth, and the product label to decide whether compost or nitrogen is needed during active growth. Avoid unnecessary late nitrogen as bulbing advances. Certified growers should verify every input with their certifier.
Step 8: Water steadily, then taper before harvest
Keep moisture consistent during spring growth and early bulbing. As plants near maturity (when lower leaves begin yellowing), taper irrigation so wrappers dry down more cleanly. Avoid soaking the bed late in the season.
Step 9: Remove scapes (hardneck), harvest, and cure correctly
Hardneck garlic produces a flower stalk called a scape. When scapes are tender and curled, remove them to help direct energy into bulb development.
Harvest timing matters for both size and storage. A practical cue: harvest when about half the leaves have yellowed but several green leaves remain. Use a fork or trowel to lift bulbs (don’t yank them), shake off loose soil, and move them out of direct sun.
Curing basics: cure bulbs in shade with good airflow until wrappers feel papery and necks are dry. Then trim roots and tops (or braid softnecks) and store in a cool, dry place with ventilation.
Why garlic bulbs stay small (quick troubleshooting)
- Cloves were small: start with larger planting stock.
- Planted too close: keep cloves 6 inches apart.
- Weeds competed early: weed pressure reduces bulb size.
- Too much late nitrogen: taper inputs as bulbing begins.
- Harvested too early: wait until about half the leaves yellow.
- Late heavy watering: taper moisture as maturity approaches.
Key Takeaways: 9 Steps for Big Garlic
If you're wondering how to get bigger garlic bulbs, success comes from following the basics throughout the growing season. Start with healthy individual cloves, choose the right types of garlic, and give your garlic plants proper spacing, consistent moisture, and the right fertilizer for garlic. Since garlic is a heavy feeder, using a quality garlic fertilizer or organic fertilizer for garlic early in the season and tapering nutrients as bulbs develop can help improve results.
Whether your goal is growing giant garlic, learning how to grow giant garlic, or simply how to grow great garlic, combining good care with proper harvest timing may support bulb size and quality, but results vary by variety, planting stock, weather, soil, pests, disease, and management.
FAQs: How to grow big garlic bulbs
Recommended next step: When you are ready to plant, Shop seed garlic and shallots.
What makes garlic bulbs grow bigger?
When should I plant garlic for the largest bulbs?
How far apart should I plant garlic for big bulbs?
What is the best fertilizer for garlic?
What is a good garlic fertilizer schedule?
How often do you water garlic?
Large Garlic Bulb Resources
These practices may support—but cannot guarantee—larger bulbs.
50 comments
I receive garlic from a local cultivator. They are very large bulbs. But I notice when I cut into them, that they are watery and have the consistency of a raw potato. They taste a little bitter and they are not very pungent or have that real smooth garlic flavor. What do you think went wrong?
Shirley, There are quite a few reasons why garlic does not bulb up. Not enough phosphorus is one and another reason is the soil gets too warm and the garlic stops increasing in size. If you had a very warm summer, and your soil went over 90F, then the garlic stops increasing in size. Next year try to keep your garlic cooler by adding some mulch over the soil.
Kate, curing garlic really just means to dry it out after digging. It gives the outer wrapper time to dry and protect the cloves inside! Cure the garlic in the shade, or indoors. Do not leave in direct sunlight or the bulbs will get sunburned and rot. Make sure there is good air circulation or they may become moldy and rot. A good way to cure garlic is to tie them in bunches, or braid them together (if it is a softneck variety) and hang them in the garage or barn, away from windows. The garlic should be cured in about 2-4 weeks. When the top is fully dried and also the roots. I like to find a big tree and tie up the garlic in small bunches and hang under the tree. But if you have a big barn or shed, that will be perfect. You just don’t want the garlic to get wet, or it may rot. After it is cured, trim off the roots (but not too close to injure the bottom of the bulb) and the top can be trimmed to about an inch. Store the garlic in paper bags, mesh bags or in a box in a cool dry place. Don’t store it in the refrigerator, that will stimulate it to sprout.
I have always planted a cold-hardy garlic and never had a problem until this year. All were very small. Our winter was not nearly as cold as usual – no snow on the ground. But we are not warm weather winters, either. So please recommend a garlic for the new in-between climate.
How do you cure garlic?