9 Steps For Big Garlic (and how to grow large garlic bulbs)
What this article covers: This guide focuses specifically on the controllable factors that influence bulb size. It complements the main garlic guide rather than repeating every step of the growing season.
If you’re searching for how to grow big garlic or how to grow large garlic bulbs, the “bulb size” recipe is surprisingly consistent: start with large cloves, give each plant space, keep growth steady through spring, then time harvest and curing correctly.
Plan your planting: Shop seed garlic and shallots for the varieties or crops discussed in this article.
Quick answer (for bigger bulbs):
- Space cloves 6 inches apart (crowding is a top cause of small bulbs).
- Plant pointy end up, typically 1–2 inches deep (deeper in colder areas).
- Feed for strong leaf growth in early spring, then taper nitrogen as bulbing begins.
- Keep moisture consistent in spring, then taper watering as plants near maturity.
- For hardneck garlic, remove scapes to help direct energy into bulbs.
- Harvest when about half the leaves have yellowed, then cure in shade with airflow.
Step 1: Choose the right type for your climate
Garlic is often grouped into hardneck and softneck types. Hardneck garlic typically excels where winters are colder and produces a scape. Softneck types often perform well in milder winter regions and tend to store longer.
Helpful next read: Hardneck vs. softneck garlic.
Step 2: Plant at the best time
For most gardens, fall planting is commonly used to provide cold exposure and a long growing window that may support bulb development. The goal is to establish roots before winter, then push strong leaf growth in spring. In mild-winter areas, planting later in fall (or early winter) can be better than planting too early.
Step 3: Start with the biggest cloves
Bulb size is strongly influenced by planting stock. For a practical starting point, select large, sound cloves. Larger planting cloves often have more reserves, but they do not guarantee larger heads. Separate bulbs into cloves close to planting time, keep the papery skins on, and plant cloves pointy end up with the flat basal plate down.
Step 4: Give cloves practical room
If your goal is big bulbs, crowding is the enemy. Space clovabout 6 inches apart within the row as a starting point, then adjust for variety, clove size, soil, bed layout, and cultivation method. Keep rows far enough apart that you can weed and water easily.
Step 5: Prep soil for drainage and easy root growth
Garlic sizes up best where roots can expand easily and excess water drains away. Before planting, loosen the top 6–8 inches and mix in compost. In heavier soils, raised beds can improve drainage and bulb shape.
If you like to fine-tune inputs, a soil test kit can help guide amendment choices.
Step 6: Mulch for steadier conditions and fewer weeds
Mulch reduces temperature swings, helps hold moisture, and blocks weed competition. After planting, apply a 3–4 inch layer of clean straw or leaves. Top it up if it breaks down over winter.
Step 7: Feed early, then taper late
Big bulbs require strong leaves first. Use soil-test results, crop history, visible growth, and the product label to decide whether compost or nitrogen is needed during active growth. Avoid unnecessary late nitrogen as bulbing advances. Certified growers should verify every input with their certifier.
Step 8: Water steadily, then taper before harvest
Keep moisture consistent during spring growth and early bulbing. As plants near maturity (when lower leaves begin yellowing), taper irrigation so wrappers dry down more cleanly. Avoid soaking the bed late in the season.
Step 9: Remove scapes (hardneck), harvest, and cure correctly
Hardneck garlic produces a flower stalk called a scape. When scapes are tender and curled, remove them to help direct energy into bulb development.
Harvest timing matters for both size and storage. A practical cue: harvest when about half the leaves have yellowed but several green leaves remain. Use a fork or trowel to lift bulbs (don’t yank them), shake off loose soil, and move them out of direct sun.
Curing basics: cure bulbs in shade with good airflow until wrappers feel papery and necks are dry. Then trim roots and tops (or braid softnecks) and store in a cool, dry place with ventilation.
Why garlic bulbs stay small (quick troubleshooting)
- Cloves were small: start with larger planting stock.
- Planted too close: keep cloves 6 inches apart.
- Weeds competed early: weed pressure reduces bulb size.
- Too much late nitrogen: taper inputs as bulbing begins.
- Harvested too early: wait until about half the leaves yellow.
- Late heavy watering: taper moisture as maturity approaches.
Key Takeaways: 9 Steps for Big Garlic
If you're wondering how to get bigger garlic bulbs, success comes from following the basics throughout the growing season. Start with healthy individual cloves, choose the right types of garlic, and give your garlic plants proper spacing, consistent moisture, and the right fertilizer for garlic. Since garlic is a heavy feeder, using a quality garlic fertilizer or organic fertilizer for garlic early in the season and tapering nutrients as bulbs develop can help improve results.
Whether your goal is growing giant garlic, learning how to grow giant garlic, or simply how to grow great garlic, combining good care with proper harvest timing may support bulb size and quality, but results vary by variety, planting stock, weather, soil, pests, disease, and management.
FAQs: How to grow big garlic bulbs
Recommended next step: When you are ready to plant, Shop seed garlic and shallots.
What makes garlic bulbs grow bigger?
When should I plant garlic for the largest bulbs?
How far apart should I plant garlic for big bulbs?
What is the best fertilizer for garlic?
What is a good garlic fertilizer schedule?
How often do you water garlic?
Large Garlic Bulb Resources
These practices may support—but cannot guarantee—larger bulbs.
50 comments
This was my first year planting/harvesting garlic. My bulbs were mostly medium sized. I planted with compost last fall, covered with 6" of straw and fed seaweed foliar spray throughout the spring. Any suggestions for what else I can fertilize it with for larger bulbs? I’m not willing to use any animal derived products (fish, feather, bone, blood meal, etc.). Would compost or alfalfa tea be sufficient?
Erich, yes the high temps could be the cause of your small bulbs. Garlic bulbs stop increasing in size if the soil temp goes above 90F. You can either buy new seed garlic to plant this fall, or save your biggest cloves to replant this year. The bigger the clove the bigger the bulb will be the following year.
This is only the third time I’ve grown garlic, each planting was Nootka rose because of our success before. This year I got a crop of mostly small and a few medium sized cloves. Here in Seattle we’ve only ever hit 100 degrees four times, ever, until this year. In late June we had our three highest temperatures ever with the highest in our yard hitting 110. I suspect this is what caused our puney bulbs. Can I plant our smallest as is and expect them to be of good size next summer? Or should I buy new cloves at the nursery this fall and try again? Thanks for the article, Erich
Bev, yes you should add more soil to cover the garlic to at least the planting depth to what you originally planted them.
Our garlic was planted last fall at one end of a raised bed. The soil level in the bed has fallen quite a bit and I would like to add soil. Is it Ok to add over the garlic – probably 4 inches?